How to choose a home alarm in the UK

What an alarm is really for

An alarm does two jobs. It puts intruders off, with a loud siren and a box on the wall that says the house is protected. But in my view the bigger job is telling you someone's there.

I've fitted plenty of systems for people after a break-in, and some of them only knew because they woke up with someone in the room. An alarm that alerts you straight away gives you time to act: call 999, get your family safe, and let whoever it is know you know they're there.

Step 1: Decide what kind of alarm you need

There are four broad types.

• Bells only (also called audible only). Sounds the sirens and tells no one else. Still a deterrent, but if you're out, nobody knows.
• Self monitored. Sounds the sirens and sends an alert straight to your phone, so you decide what happens next. Most DIY alarms work this way, including The Guardfather Security System.
• Keyholder monitored. A monitoring centre watches the alarm and rings your nominated keyholders when it goes off. That service usually comes with a monitoring contract.
• Police response. The monitoring centre can ask the police to attend. It needs a system fitted and maintained by an NSI or SSAIB approved company, a Unique Reference Number (URN) from the police, and an Alarm Receiving Centre. It's a great service but it's expensive, and in my experience most homes and small businesses don't need it. If your insurer asks for it, or your property is high risk, that's the way to go.

Step 2: Wired or wireless?

If you've no alarm at the moment, I'd go wireless for almost every home. Wired systems mean lifting floorboards, chasing walls and running cables, and once a sensor's in, that's where it lives. Wireless is quicker and cleaner to fit, easy to add to later (a shed, a garage, an extra room), and you can move sensors if your home changes.

Wired still has its place: large commercial sites, industrial units, buildings full of steel, or a full renovation where the walls are open anyway. And even if old cables are already there, a wired system still needs proper knowledge to install and fault find.

Not all wireless is equal, though. Cheap systems are what gave wireless a bad name, so steer clear. Look for:

• sensors that talk to the control panel on their own radio, not over your Wi-Fi
• jamming detection, and a control panel that keeps checking every sensor is still there
• long battery life, with the app warning you well before a battery runs out
• a backup battery in the control panel for power cuts

Step 3: Fit it yourself, or have it fitted?

Fitting it yourself costs less, it's flexible, and you're in full control. It just relies on you setting it up properly, so you want clear, visual instructions. Having it professionally fitted costs more, but it's done for you, which suits very large or complicated properties, or anyone without the time. You can sometimes be tied into ongoing services, which isn't a bad thing, just something to know about.

Which of these sounds like you?

• Happy with a drill and an app: a DIY smart alarm. This is who I built The Guardfather Security System for.
• Plenty of know-how, but no time: a smart alarm, professionally fitted.
• Not a fan of apps or technology: a simple, professionally fitted alarm you set and unset with a keypad, with no app needed.
• Happy with apps, but hate DIY: a smart alarm, fitted by a professional.
• A high value or high risk property: an NSI Gold (or similar) accredited company, a graded system, and police response. Insurers will often want at least Grade 2.
• Can't do the physical work yourself: a DIY alarm fitted by a family member, or a local installer with a maintenance contract so someone can come out quickly if you need them.
• Renting, or moving soon: a DIY wireless alarm you can take down and take with you. Check with your landlord before drilling.

Step 4: Work out what you need, and where

You don't need a sensor in every room. You need one wherever someone could get in, or would have to pass through. Here's how I'd protect a typical two storey house with a garage:

1. 1.Control panel near your internet router.
2. 2.Keypad in the hallway, by the door you use most.
3. 3.Door contact on the front door.
4. 4.Motion sensors in the downstairs rooms with a window or door someone could get in through, like the lounge and a front room.
5. 5.One motion sensor covering the kitchen and the back door. Some people add a door contact on the back door too.
6. 6.Nothing in rooms with no way in, like a downstairs toilet with no window. Anyone getting there has already passed another sensor.
7. 7.One motion sensor on the upstairs landing. Upstairs is less likely to be the way in, and anyone moving between rooms has to cross the landing.
8. 8.A motion sensor in the garage, shed or outbuilding, where the tools and bikes live.
9. 9.An outdoor siren on the front of the house, where it can be seen.
10. 10.Optional: an outdoor motion sensor covering the back garden or a side path, to catch people before they reach a door. Never point one at a drive, or it'll pick up the postman and every delivery.
11. 11.Optional: smoke sensors, so your phone knows about a fire even when you're out.

That house needs a control panel, a keypad, a door contact, five motion sensors and an outdoor siren, plus any optional extras.

Get the inside right first. Outdoor detection is a great extra layer, but it's hard to cover every angle outside, so it works best on top of good indoor protection, not instead of it. With wireless, you can always add more later.

Step 5: Check the things you'll live with every day

This is where most people go wrong. The biggest mistake I see is buying a system you don't actually use. If the app's confusing or the alerts arrive late, people stop setting it, and an alarm that isn't set is only doing half its job. The box on the wall still puts people off, but nothing will tell you if someone gets in. So before you buy, check:

• The app. Alerts should arrive straight away, and it should be simple enough that everyone in the house uses it.
• Support. Who helps you when something isn't right, and how quickly?
• Running costs. What works without a monthly plan, and what doesn't? My guide to alarms with no monthly fees covers this in detail.
• Upkeep. Standard batteries you can buy anywhere are easier than branded packs.
• Warranty and returns. How long is the warranty, and what happens if it isn't right for you?

The best alarm is the one you feel confident with and set every single day.

Where The Guardfather Security System fits

If you're happy to fit it yourself and want an app with no subscriptions, that's exactly who The Guardfather Security System is for. Every sensor, the keypad, the key fobs and the siren talk to the control panel on their own dedicated 868MHz radio, the panel connects to your router by ethernet, Wi-Fi or both, and the app, the alerts and remote control are free, for good. Every device has its own step-by-step install video, and support comes from me.

If you're in any of the other groups, I'll happily point you somewhere else. I'd rather you ended up with the right alarm than the wrong one from me.

Watch: how to choose the right home security system

Watch on YouTube

The video version of this guide, with a bit more on indoor and outdoor detection.